Carpaccio di polpo at Ummo in Chicago, Oct. 4, 2023.

Carpaccio di polpo at Ummo in Chicago, Oct. 4, 2023. (John J. Kim/Chicago Tribune)

Review: Ummo chef José Sosa explores inventive Italian

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Chef and partner José Sosa opened his debut restaurant, Ummo, in August in the River North neighborhood of Chicago. Sosa describes his menu simply as contemporary Italian, but it’s more than that.

Carpaccio di polpo at Ummo in Chicago, Oct. 4, 2023.

Carpaccio di polpo at Ummo in Chicago, Oct. 4, 2023. (John J. Kim/Chicago Tribune)

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Chef and partner José Sosa at Ummo in Chicago on Oct. 4, 2023.

Chef and partner José Sosa at Ummo in Chicago on Oct. 4, 2023. (John J. Kim/Chicago Tribune)

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The filetto is served sliced to reveal impeccably cooked medium-rare filet mignon at Ummo.

The filetto is served sliced to reveal impeccably cooked medium-rare filet mignon at Ummo. (John J. Kim/Chicago Tribune)

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The Pomodoro e basilico dessert is a faux tomato, made from molded yogurt mousse and filled with a raspberry compote at Ummo.

The Pomodoro e basilico dessert is a faux tomato, made from molded yogurt mousse and filled with a raspberry compote at Ummo. (John J. Kim/Chicago Tribune)

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Chef and partner José Sosa works in the kitchen at Ummo on Oct. 4, 2023, in Chicago.

Chef and partner José Sosa works in the kitchen at Ummo on Oct. 4, 2023, in Chicago. (John J. Kim/Chicago Tribune)

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The Saturno, left, and Numero Due, right, a refreshing take on the classic Corpse Reviver No. 2, but with Lillet Rosé, ginger liqueur and passion fruit at Ummo.

The Saturno, left, and Numero Due, right, a refreshing take on the classic Corpse Reviver No. 2, but with Lillet Rosé, ginger liqueur and passion fruit at Ummo. (John J. Kim/Chicago Tribune)

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The branzino arrosto is a wood-fired fish with roasted tomatoes and pickled onion petals served head and tail on, but mostly deboned, at Ummo.

The branzino arrosto is a wood-fired fish with roasted tomatoes and pickled onion petals served head and tail on, but mostly deboned, at Ummo. (John J. Kim/Chicago Tribune)

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The dining room at Ummo on Oct. 4, 2023, in Chicago.

The dining room at Ummo on Oct. 4, 2023, in Chicago. (John J. Kim/Chicago Tribune)

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The upstairs lounge with a billiards table at Ummo on Oct. 4, 2023, in Chicago.

The upstairs lounge with a billiards table at Ummo on Oct. 4, 2023, in Chicago. (John J. Kim/Chicago Tribune)

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The bar at Ummo on Oct. 4, 2023, in Chicago.

The bar at Ummo on Oct. 4, 2023, in Chicago. (John J. Kim/Chicago Tribune)

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The second-floor cocktail bar and lounge at Ummo is called the Loft, open Fridays and Saturdays only.

The second-floor cocktail bar and lounge at Ummo is called the Loft, open Fridays and Saturdays only. (John J. Kim/Chicago Tribune)

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People walk past the exterior of Ummo on West Hubbard Street on Oct. 4, 2023, in Chicago.

People walk past the exterior of Ummo on West Hubbard Street on Oct. 4, 2023, in Chicago. (John J. Kim/Chicago Tribune)

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