America’s Test Kitchen: Scallions go from sidekick to star in these savory-sweet noodles

Scallion oil noodles, a popular Shanghainese dish, are springy wheat noodles dressed with scallion-infused oil, savory soy sauce, and sugar for balance.

We slowly simmered scallion whites and thinly sliced shallot in peanut oil to draw out their aromas, with thin strips of ginger added for freshness. Dark soy sauce, light soy sauce, and sugar added to the scallion mixture helped form a glossy, savory-sweet sauce. Fresh wheat noodles, which have a tender, chewy texture, were tossed to coat in the sauce.

The dish can be served plain or enhanced with a range of toppings, including blanched bok choy, stir-fried ground pork, or crispy fried eggs. We opted for the traditional route of garnishing with crispy scallion greens, which are shallow-fried until nearly blackened and shatteringly crisp.

Shanghai Scallion Oil Noodles

Serves 4 to 6

1/4 cup light soy sauce

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce

5 teaspoons sugar

15-18 scallions (6 ounces), white and green parts separated

1 (1-inch) piece ginger, peeled

1 pound fresh Chinese wheat noodles

2/3 cup peanut or vegetable oil

1/8 teaspoon table salt

1 shallot, halved and sliced thin

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1. Combine light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, and sugar in a small bowl; set aside. Halve scallion whites lengthwise, then slice into 1 1/2-inch segments. Slice green parts into 1 1/2-inch segments; reserve white and green parts separately. Slice ginger crosswise into thin rounds. Stack rounds and slice into thin matchsticks.

2. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in a large pot. Add noodles and cook, stirring often, until just tender. Drain noodles, rinse well, and drain again; set aside.

3. Meanwhile, heat oil and scallion greens in a 14-inch wok or 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat and cook, stirring constantly, until most scallions are browned and crispy, 8 to 10 minutes. Off heat, use a slotted spoon to transfer scallion greens to a small bowl; sprinkle with salt and set aside.

4. Add shallot, scallion whites, and ginger to oil remaining in wok and cook over medium-low heat, stirring often, until scallion whites and shallot are golden and wilted, 11 to 13 minutes.

5. Stir soy sauce mixture to recombine and add to scallion mixture in wok. Cook, stirring often, until sugar is dissolved and sauce is rapidly bubbling, 1 to 2 minutes. Add noodles and toss until evenly coated in sauce and heated through, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer noodles to serving bowls and top with scallion greens. Serve.

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